Posts Tagged ‘How To’

Don’t Say Cheese! How To Take Better Pictures of Your Kids – Part 7 – Window Light

Wednesday, January 4th, 2012

You didn’t think we were done with the Don’t Say Cheese! series…did you.  Absolutely not.  You know how it goes…you get busy with Christmas…then New Year’s.  Well, with the holidays now over we can get back down to business and hopefully learn something new about taking photos of your kids.  In part 7 of this series, I want to tell you about the fantastic benefits of Window Light.  Window light can be an amazing tool in your photo arsenal if you learn how to use it properly.  The best natural light you can photograph in are the sunrise and sunset magic hours.  After the magic hour in the morning is past (usually happens right after the sun pops up…early in the am) and before the magic hour in the evening you can be left with some really unflattering light from direct overhead sun.  But if you go inside and use window light to use as your main light source you will get beautiful soft directional light that will make you look like a pro.

Now not all window light is equal.  This is according to most artists who paint.  Have you ever heard of an artist who insisted on having a north facing room to paint in?  Most artists will tell you that north facing windows give you the most consistent prettiest light.  Not sure what they have against south facing light, but anywho.  All YOU need to worry about is finding the a window in your house and as long as there isn’t direct sunlight streaming though it, the window will give you that soft directional light that portrait photographers crave.  In fact photographers use a lighting tool to mimic window light.  It is called a soft box and they come in all different sizes from 1 foot square to over 6 feet tall.  These soft boxes give photographers that same directional soft light as window light does.

child photography, kids portraits, how to, photos of your kids, photos on canvas, canvas prints, pictures of kids

Here is what a softbox looks like.

You might be asking, “Ok, so how do I use this window light to take photos of my kids when they are going 100 miles per hour?”  Great question…I’m not sure.  Hey, I didn’t say this was fool proof ;-D.  Taking photos with the window light might require a little cooperation from the kids or maybe during a time when they are quietly playing or resting.  One good little trick that I have used is to tell them to look at the kangaroo outside (insert whatever you want…just get them to look outside).  Then they usually look pretty intently out the window.  This is a great photo op for a natural expression of them.  Then they will look at you because you are taking a picture of them.  If you time it right and use your sense of humor you can get them to laugh and bingo!  There is your chance to get that candid, beautifully lit, perfectly timed portrait.  Just be fast.

I invite you to start noticing how the light that is coming through your windows shapes the objects in your house.  Now insert a small child in and see what you can create.

Here are a few examples to illustrate how beautiful window light can be!

window light, child portrait, children photography, photography, canvas prints, photos on canvas

Thanks to Travis Atwood Design - http://travisatwooddesign.com

child photography, kids portraits, how to, photos of your kids, photos on canvas, canvas prints, pictures of kids

Thanks to Stacey Woods Photography - http://www.staceywoodsphoto.com/

child photography, portraits, window light, photos on canvas, canvas photo

Thanks to Artem Loshak for the beautiful photo

Don’t Say Cheese! How To Take Better Pictures of Your Kids – Part 5 – The Rule of Thirds

Wednesday, November 16th, 2011

The Rule of Thirds is probably the single most important thing to learn when your start practicing your photography.  It will automatically make your photos more interesting.  I didn’t say it would make your photos great, but it will definitely make them more interesting to look at.  When we talk about The Rule of Thirds we are basically talking about Composition or the placement of key subjects in relation to one another in the photograph.  So whenever I use the word “composition” I am talking about “the rule of thirds” and vice versa.  Have you ever heard of people saying, “Well he/she has a great eye” when it comes to photography.  More than likely that “eye” they are talking about relates to how you compose your photographs.  You can be born with a great “eye” or you can develop and practice your composition and develop your “eye” for composing great photographs.  This is where The Rule of Thirds helps out those people who may be “Composition-ally Challenged” (by the way, I know I am using quotations waaay too much in this post already so I will try to cut back).

So, what exactly is The Rule of Thirds?  The wiki definition states: an image should be imagined as divided into nine equal parts by two equally-spaced horizontal lines and two equally-spaced vertical lines, and that important compositional elements should be placed along these lines or their intersections.

Let’s simplify that shall we.  Have you ever played tic-tac-toe?  If you drew out a tic-tac-toe board across your photo like this you will have the guidelines for the rule of thirds:

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So what should you do with those lines.  Well let’s go back to simplifying the Wikipedia definition.  I’ll break it down like this.  Don’t put your subject (in this case…your kids) smack in the middle of the frame.  The rule is you don’t want to split your subject in half (both vertically or horizontally).  Use these lines as guides to place your subject on one of the lines for a more pleasing composition.  This rule is especially helpful to those of you who like to dabble in a little vacation photos or landscapes.  The general rule is that you shouldn’t put the horizon line in the middle of your photo.  Place it closer to the top third or bottom third of the photo.

Now let’s go one step further.  The intersection of the lines on your tic-tac-toe rule of thirds are called “power points”…no…not the Microsoft software.  These are areas of a photo where your eye naturally falls.  So if you can compose your image to have one of the important elements landing on one of the power points your photo will be that much more compelling and interesting to look at.  Here are where those power points are at:

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Allright.  Now it is time to show you some real world examples of some good uses of The Rule of Thirds so you can get an idea of how you can use it the next time you are composing a photo of your kids.  None of these photos are split down the middle.  In some of them the subject is just off to the center, but it makes a big difference.

canvas prints, photos on canvas, photo to canvas, canvas print, gallery wrap, child photos

canvas prints, photos on canvas, photo to canvas, canvas print, gallery wrap, child photos

canvas prints, photos on canvas, photo to canvas, canvas print, gallery wrap, child photos

canvas prints, photos on canvas, photo to canvas, canvas print, gallery wrap, child photos

canvas prints, photos on canvas, photo to canvas, canvas print, gallery wrap, child photos This last photo is a good example of using the bottom 2/3 of the the image and leaving room at the top of the photo as interesting blank space.  And notice he isn’t split exactly down the middle of the photograph…so even a slight adjustment can make a big difference.

I also recommend you google “Rule of Thirds” and there are a ton of other great examples…these are just ones I happened to have taken over the past year or so.  You can also get some great examples of using the Rule of Thirds when photographing landscapes and other scenic vacation photos.  Now you can start to play around with your composition and keeping your subject out of the middle of the photo.

Keep in mind that this…like most other photography rules…can be broken, but it is better to understand the rule enough to know when you can break it.

How To: Ordering Alumiprints

Thursday, August 4th, 2011

How do I order my photos on to aluminum metal prints? Here’s a quick tutorial from Canvas Press on how to get your favorite photos onto our beautiful AlumiPrints. Enjoy!




Tutorial: Online Ordering

Tuesday, June 21st, 2011

Here is a quick tutorial to guide you through our online ordering tool on CanvasPress.com. It covers everything from sizing and cropping on our site, to selecting the right borders for your Gallery Wrap canvas. Click here to order your photo on canvas today…

Photoshop Tutorial: Sizing and Cropping

Friday, June 17th, 2011

Everyone needs a little learning once in a while. So, here’s a quick video tutorial on how to size and crop your images properly when ordering your 1.5″ Gallery Wrap canvas with an Image Border from Canvas Press.


Feel free to post your questions in the Comments section below. Thanks!

Travel Safety Tips for Photographers

Monday, May 9th, 2011


Traveling is an amazing opportunity for taking some of the best photographs; however, being in a strange place with flashy camera equipment can sometimes be asking for trouble. Transportation of everything in general can be a challenge as well. These few simple tips will help you keep your treasured memories secure so you can bring home your best travel photography.

 

 

1. When traveling through airports keep your most vital and sensitive equipment with you. We’ve all seen the disarray our checked bags can appear in and trusting that your lenses or other equipment will arrive undamaged is not a good idea. With bags being searched everywhere, it isn’t out of the question that thefts occur in the process, with expensive items being “misplaced” unfortunately. Accessories like extra batteries or filters that are non-essential items can be checked just to save weight and space in your carry-on.

 

 

Because you’ll be carrying a lot of electronic equipment allow extra time to go through security. After an x-ray they’ll likely want to examine the pieces. Just be patient and watch while they do so. After all, it’s to keep us all safe.

 

 

2. Treat your memory cards like gold. Bring extra cards with you so you can keep snapping and not have to delete or worry about needing to download images to free up space. Once a card is full keep it in a secure place, tucked away in your money belt isn’t a bad idea. If you do have to check your camera on the way home take the card out and keep it on you, that way if something happens at least you have the images.

 

 

3. Make sure you are insured. If you buy travel insurance for your trip check the coverage for belongings and make sure camera equipment is covered for full replacement costs (check your that your total $ claim limit will be enough) for damage, theft and loss. If the travel insurance company doesn’t offer the coverage you need call your renters or homeowners insurance company to discuss their coverage or options to purchase a temporary policy.

 

 

4. Don’t flaunt your gear. Find a bag or backpack that will safely hold your equipment but that doesn’t scream “expensive photo gear” with fancy logos and obvious camera bag style. Minimize your accessories as much as possible, but don’t skimp so much that you have regrets, thinking “This shot would be so much better with my wide angle!”

 

 

If you want a group shot and ask someone to take it for you, it’s not a bad idea to look for another tourist or someone with a nice camera as well. That way they won’t be tempted to run for it (no European Vacation moments) and they’ll probably know what buttons to push to get the shot.

 

 

Once you get home safely with all your amazing photos don’t forget to share them! If you travel a lot, think about starting your own blog or post them on Facebook. Once you’ve had a chance to sort through and pull out your favorites, make a few tweaks and edits so they are perfect and start creating your own personal art.

 

 

Printing travel photos on canvas or aluminum can make unique and meaningful artwork to decorate your home or office. Let Canvas Press help you do so. Once people start to see how amazing it looks you’ll have requests for more and more copies! Before you know it you’ll be starting your own business selling fine art prints of your travel photos.

The Artist’s Guide to Online Video

Thursday, May 7th, 2009

Many of our customers are artists or art hobbyists who use canvas printing as a cost effective way to reproduce their work. The artist photographs or scans his or her original and uploads the digital version to CanvasPress.com. Canvas Press will photograph your art if you drop it by our store front at 33 Cypress Blvd Ste 100, Round Rock, Texas 78665.

It seems one of the challenges an artist faces is generating publicity for his or her work therefore I decided to share an article I found on Mashable.com (http://mashable.com/2009/03/12/youtube-artist/).

Videoblogging isn’t just for teenyboppers with Flips. It’s a simple way professional creatives can make use of high traffic sites like YouTube() to showcase their work and communicate with their audience in a fun and effective way.

The article lists 5 ways artists can use YouTube:

  1. Tell a story – Tell the story of how each of your works came to fruition including what inspired you as well as the work’s subject matter.
  2. Make a tutorial video – Share your knowledge and see the positives you get in return.
  3. Make videos about YOU – Put a personality to your crafts.
  4. Make your painting videos art – Set up the tri-pod and record while you create.
  5. Make testimonial videos – Share videos of art shows, collectors’ comments and fans.

Megapixels, Resolution, and DPI

Tuesday, March 31st, 2009
Megapixels, Resolution and DPI
by Kyle McKee
“How many megapixels?” It still seems to be the million dollar question for most people when it comes to digital cameras, from point and shoots, to digital SLRs, to even your camera phone. Why just yesterday I had a friend flaunting a new phone sporting a hefty 2 megapixels. Yes, these little, seemingly microscopic, pixels are reproducing at alarming levels even in our phones. In less than 10 years we’ve seen the number of pixels explode with most camera manufactures now offering over 10 megapixels. Do we really need 10, if so, why not 20? Is more really better? And if they’re so “mega” why the heck wouldn’t a single megapixel suffice? Why do we consistently want more of these pixels? And, more importantly, how many do we need to print out something worthy of hanging on the wall?

Let’s first quickly define a megapixel. The word megapixel can be broken up into two words Mega, in this case meaning 1 million, and pixel, an abbreviation for picture element. The “pix” portion arises from the common abbreviation for picture. A pixel is basically a little dot that when combined with a bunch of other little dots, one million in the case of 1 megapixel, produces what our eyes recognize as an image. Obviously it takes a lot of these little dots to produce a sizable image.

The first thought that comes to mind for many when the word megapixel is mentioned is image quality. Image quality might also be translated to image resolution. Cameras differ when it comes to how many megapixels it takes to give a certain resolution. In other words, a 4 megapixel photo taken by a Canon camera will more than likely not have the same resolution as a 4 megapixel photo taken by a Sony camera. This is due primarily because the image capturing sensor within each of the cameras differs between manufactures. You can usually determine your camera’s megapixel to resolution ratio by looking in your owner’s manual or visiting your camera manufacture’s website.

We do know that the number of pixels present directly corresponds to an image’s maximum resolution at different sizes. As you increase the size of the photo you actually magnify, or zoom in on, the pixels. Thus, theoretically, the more pixels you have the better the image will look at higher resolutions.

When printing your image, a printer attempts to recreate it on paper by translating megapixels or image resolution to dpi (dots per inch). Dpi is the printer’s measure of printing resolution; in particular the number of individual dots of ink a printer can produce. At around 250 dpi and above the human eye has trouble seeing these individual dots of ink and the printed picture appears as one large image. At Canvas Press we print the majority of our images at a minimum of 240 dpi.


So, what is the relationship between resolution and dpi and what is required to produce a clean crisp printed image? New York Times technical editor David Pogue conducted an interesting experiment that I believe can help give us a better understanding of how resolution relates to dpi.


In his experiment Pogue printed the same picture taken 3 times by the same camera (16.7-megapixel Canon-1Ds Mark II) but at different resolutions. He took one at 7 megapixels, one at 10 megapixels, and another at 16.7 megapixels and then printed the pictures at a poster size of 16×24 inches. The pictures were displayed in a public library and judged by the passing public. According to his results, only 3 out of his 50 test subjects were able to accurately distinguish between the lower and higher resolutions (New York Times).
Pogue doesn’t go into detail on the dpi that each image was printed at but by using some basic calculations we are able to determine the maximum dpi each photo could have been printed at.


To calculate the maximum dpi that an image is capable of printing at we first need to gather the image’s resolution and the size at which we would like to print the image at. Pogue had 3 different image resolutions resulting from three separate photos taken at 7, 10, and 16.7 megapixels. Per Canon’s website the Canon-1Ds Mark II captures images at the following resolutions (Canon EOS-1Ds Mark II):


And we know that the images are then printed at 16 x 24.

To calculate the dpi of each photo we divide image resolution by the print size.


So, 7 megapixel images on the Canon-1Ds Mark II have a maximum resolution of 3072 x 2048. Using this let us calculate the highest dpi that we can print this image at without modifying or enhancing it.


A 7 megapixel image at a size of 16 x 24 has a max dpi of 192 x 85 and by adding vertical and horizontal dpi we get a total of 277 dpi.

A 10 megapixel image with a resolution of 3600 x 2400:


Theses calculations show that the 10 megapixel image maxes out at 325 dpi.

A 16.7 megapixel image with a 4992 x 3328 resolution:


So, taking in mind that the human eye can only detect color squares at around 250 dpi and lower, you can see how Pogue’s test subjects might have had troubles differentiating between the different images.

However, if we were to print these images at a size lager that 16 x 24, maybe something like a 30 x 40, you would probably be able to tell the difference between a 7 megapixel and a 16.7 megapixel image. But these larger sized images are usually not designed to be viewed close up but rather at a distance of at least a few feet or so. And, at that distance you would probably have problems differentiating between them.

I think Pogue’s experiment helps to clarify the point that regardless of how many megapixels are used in capturing an image or the resulting image resolution, the human eye has problems discerning any enhances in quality over about 250 dpi. Any printed image that meets or exceeds this standard dpi will appear sharp and clear.

Now that you can fairly quickly determine the probable dpi that an image will print at, let us suppose that one of your favorite shots was taken at only 4 megapixels, a 2946 x 1664 resolution, and that you would like to see it on a beautiful 30 x 40 canvas gallery wrap. A 2946 x 1664 resolution image could normally only print out at a maximum of 140 dpi at 30 x 40. At that dpi the printed result will more than likely not meet your expectations and may even appear blurry or pixilated.

Fortunately, digital images can be enhanced and at Canvas Press we have the ability to take lower resolution images and resize them to a quality capable of printing at over 250 dpi and at sizes much larger than even 30 x 40. That 4 megapixel photo might even be billboard material after we work our magic on it.

Let us help you worry less about megapixels, resolution, and dpi and concentrate rather on getting that memorable photo focused in and framed correctly. From digital photo enhancements to large format printing, we specialize in ensuring your photos come out looking spectacular on canvas.

How To Frame a Standard Stretch Canvas

Thursday, March 5th, 2009

Framing stretched canvas is quite different from framing a traditional photograph. Stretched canvas does not require a mat or glass and it fits into an open back frame. You can take your Standard Stretch canvases to a professional frame shop or use these instructions to do it yourself and save money.

With a Canvas Press Standard Stretch canvas, the image is on the front while the sides are white. The wood frame the canvas is stretched around is ¾” thick and we staple the canvas on the back. You may see a small amount of white when looking at the canvas straight on because of the canvas folds; however this will be hidden by the decorative frame.

Standard Stretch Canvas from Canvas Press

Standard Stretch Canvas from Canvas Press

Standard Stretch Canvas from Canvas Press

Go to your local frame shop or craft store with a selection of ready made, open-back frames. The standard sizes are usually 8×10, 11×14, 16×20, 18×24, 20×24, 24×30, and 30×40, some stores will have other sizes like 10×20. You may want to see what is available in your area before placing the order for your canvas.

If you require a custom size cut and assembled by framing professionals you can still save money by finishing it off yourself. The frame will have a lip that the canvas rests on, depending on the frame it may cover ¼” to ½” of the canvas. Keep this in mind when cropping your image and make sure there is room for this overlap.

Frame for Standard Stretch Canvas from Canvas Press

Frame for Standard Stretch Canvas from Canvas Press

Frame for Standard Stretch Canvas from Canvas Press

You will also need clips to secure the canvas to the frame. These are usually found on the same aisle as stretcher bars. They should come in a pack of four, the exact amount for one frame.

Canvas Clips

Once you have gathered these supplies you are ready to finish assembling the framed canvas. Set the canvas inside the frame so it is resting on the lip. Every frame will be slightly different, some fit tightly while others are loose. Just be careful not to scratch the ink on the canvas when placing it in the frame.

Lip of frame

Framing Standard Stretch Canvas from Canvas Press

Now you can apply the clips to secure the canvas. Slide the pointed end down along the edge and against the frame like shown in the pictures below. Pull the remaining clip over the stretcher bar and press firmly in place.

Clipping Standard Stretch Canvas from Canvas Press into frame

Clipping Standard Stretch Canvas from Canvas Press into frame

The frame is complete. There are many different ways to hang the finished piece. You can hammer a sawtooth hanger onto the part that sticks out the furthest, be it frame or stretcher bar. Another option is to attach a wire across the back. Many frame shops will clean up the look of the back by taping or stapling a solid sheet of black butcher paper. You can also set your framed canvas on an easel for display.

Framed Canvas from Canvas Press on Easel

Framed Canvas from Canvas Press